https://nick-black.com/dankwiki/api.php?hidebots=1&urlversion=1&days=30&limit=50&target=Full_tower_cases&action=feedrecentchanges&feedformat=atomdankwiki - Changes related to "Full tower cases" [en]2024-03-29T14:16:55Zrelated changesMediaWiki 1.41.0https://nick-black.com/dankwiki/index.php?title=MO-RA3&diff=10577&oldid=9094MO-RA32024-03-23T19:47:54Z<p><span dir="auto"><span class="autocomment">Daisy chaining</span></span></p>
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<td colspan="2" style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122; text-align: center;">← Older revision</td>
<td colspan="2" style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122; text-align: center;">Revision as of 19:47, 23 March 2024</td>
</tr><tr><td colspan="4" class="diff-multi" lang="en">(One intermediate revision by the same user not shown)</td></tr><tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l70">Line 70:</td>
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<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>Desiring to source the most efficient power possible, I'll run a lengthy PCIe 6-pin cable out the back of my machine, capable of carrying at least 75W on its three 12V pins (6.24A). I'll then use a trivial adapter to take that to SATA or Molex, and thus be able to power nine PF-14s on the front, and nine NF-A14s on the back. I do not intend to put any pumps on the MO-RA3, as I already have three D5s in my workstation. My longest PCIe cables are 75cm long, with a 30cm PCIe-to-Molex adapter. This means I can't use the MO-RA3 more than about a meter away from my workstation. If I wanted to run it three meters away, I'd need to use external power (and cut longer tubes).</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>Desiring to source the most efficient power possible, I'll run a lengthy PCIe 6-pin cable out the back of my machine, capable of carrying at least 75W on its three 12V pins (6.24A). I'll then use a trivial adapter to take that to SATA or Molex, and thus be able to power nine PF-14s on the front, and nine NF-A14s on the back. I do not intend to put any pumps on the MO-RA3, as I already have three D5s in my workstation. My longest PCIe cables are 75cm long, with a 30cm PCIe-to-Molex adapter. This means I can't use the MO-RA3 more than about a meter away from my workstation. If I wanted to run it three meters away, I'd need to use external power (and cut longer tubes).</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="−"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I'll need to run two tubes out to the MO-RA3, but beyond <del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">coolant </del>and power, what is necessary? The RGB and PWM of fans must be managed. If I have any temperature or flow sensors on the MO-RA3, they'll need hookups. It ought be possible, however, to control all this from a device local to the MO-RA3. Many people use Aquacomputer products such as the [https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3420 Splitty] in this role, and run data over a USB or Aquabus cable. I'd instead like to use a SBC with 2.4GHz 802.11n. I will likely break the shield off a [[CODI6]] to get the PWM+RGB headers.</div></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div><ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">Actually, instead I just used a standard 12V AC adapter. A 120W supply can comfortably handle nine fans, two D5 pumps, an active sensor, and microcontrollers.</ins></div></td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-side-deleted"></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div> </div></td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-side-deleted"></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>I'll need to run two tubes out to the MO-RA3, but beyond <ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">water </ins>and power, what is necessary? The RGB and PWM of fans must be managed. If I have any temperature or flow sensors on the MO-RA3, they'll need hookups. It ought be possible, however, to control all this from a device local to the MO-RA3. Many people use Aquacomputer products such as the [https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3420 Splitty] in this role, and run data over a USB or Aquabus cable. I'd instead like to use a SBC with 2.4GHz 802.11n. I will likely break the shield off a [[CODI6]] to get the PWM+RGB headers.</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[https://dewire.shop/products/relay-420 Dewire] out of the Netherlands has some very nice linear PWM splitters, very suitable for use in the MO-RA3.</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[https://dewire.shop/products/relay-420 Dewire] out of the Netherlands has some very nice linear PWM splitters, very suitable for use in the MO-RA3.</div></td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno" id="mw-diff-left-l89">Line 89:</td>
<td colspan="2" class="diff-lineno">Line 91:</td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>* female1 is unused</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>* female1 is unused</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="−"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>the "gender adapter" here is just a 4-pin jumper.</div></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>the "gender adapter" here is just a <ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">3- or </ins>4-pin jumper <ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">(for ARGB and RGB, respectively)</ins>.</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>But that's not how it's expecting to hook up; it expects you to use the female receptacles at the outlay. Thankfully, there's a little less than 25mm of gap on one side of the grill. So long as all your wires end up there, they'll be hidden (this gap has a solid cover). So...</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>But that's not how it's expecting to hook up; it expects you to use the female receptacles at the outlay. Thankfully, there's a little less than 25mm of gap on one side of the grill. So long as all your wires end up there, they'll be hidden (this gap has a solid cover). So...</div></td></tr>
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