InaMORAta: Difference between revisions
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[[File:PXL 20220916 080028177.jpg|right|thumb|the completed apparatus]] | [[File:PXL 20220916 080028177.jpg|right|thumb|the completed apparatus]] | ||
[[InaMORata_2.0|Updated in 2024]] | |||
Let's fuck hard with some fans using an [[Arduino|Arduino MEGA]] and a [https://heltec.org/project/wifi-lora-32/ Heltec LoRa ESP32 v2]. These will be used with my [[MO-RA3]] to collect realtime data (fan RPMs, temperatures, etc.) and provide realtime control (fan PWM/RPM, RGB signals). We will also need an LM2596 buck converter and six IRLB8721 logic level MOSFETs, a TXB0108 level shifter, and various resistors. | Let's fuck hard with some fans using an [[Arduino|Arduino MEGA]] and a [https://heltec.org/project/wifi-lora-32/ Heltec LoRa ESP32 v2]. These will be used with my [[MO-RA3]] to collect realtime data (fan RPMs, temperatures, etc.) and provide realtime control (fan PWM/RPM, RGB signals). We will also need an LM2596 buck converter and six IRLB8721 logic level MOSFETs, a TXB0108 level shifter, and various resistors. | ||
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==Powering the system== | ==Powering the system== | ||
[[File:12vpwmrgbhub.png|right|thumb|Power enters via SATA to a 12V RGB/PWM hub]] | |||
We need 12V for our fans (Arctic P14 RGBs) and their RGB LEDs. This is accomplished with a SHNITPWR 12V AC adapter, plugged into a barreljack switch. This barreljack switch is then adapted to a 12V-only SATA plug (SATA normally carries 3.3V, 5V, and 12V). The SATA plug enters a 12V PWM+RGB hub. All fans are plugged directly into this hub, one port of which carries through tachometer readings. | We need 12V for our fans (Arctic P14 RGBs) and their RGB LEDs. This is accomplished with a SHNITPWR 12V AC adapter, plugged into a barreljack switch. This barreljack switch is then adapted to a 12V-only SATA plug (SATA normally carries 3.3V, 5V, and 12V). The SATA plug enters a 12V PWM+RGB hub. All fans are plugged directly into this hub, one port of which carries through tachometer readings. | ||
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==Wiring== | ==Wiring== | ||
[[File:Inamorata bb.png|right|thumb|Fritzing diagram]] | |||
The breadboard has 4 vertical channels. We'll use GND at 0 (the leftmost), 5V at 1, and 3.3V at 2. Both MCUs will be tied to channel 0 for ground. The Arduino will supply our 5V, and the Heltec our 3.3V. | The breadboard has 4 vertical channels. We'll use GND at 0 (the leftmost), 5V at 1, and 3.3V at 2. Both MCUs will be tied to channel 0 for ground. The Arduino will supply our 5V, and the Heltec our 3.3V. | ||
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==Future work== | ==Future work== | ||
* This needs to get cleaned up, obviously. at a bare minimum, wires need be soldered into the Heltec. | * This needs to get cleaned up, obviously. at a bare minimum, wires need be soldered into the Heltec. | ||
* I ought power the Heltec through the 5V pin rather than the USB. In this case, it moves to the LM2596, and the only thing drawing 5V is the CODI6 (for ARGB LEDs). | |||
* I think I can eliminate the MEGA2560 entirely? We only need move the three tachometer inputs and three RGB outputs at this point. Eliminating it would also (probably) eliminate the level shifter. | |||
[[CATEGORY:Projects]] | [[CATEGORY:Projects]] | ||
[[CATEGORY:Hardware]] | [[CATEGORY:Hardware]] | ||