Dankdryer improvements: Difference between revisions

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* I cut out chunks from the eight "fat corners" of the hotbox. I'd like to make these siting areas for dessicants. This <i>added</i> weight, presumably due to more walls vs sparse infill, so I changed it back.
* I cut out chunks from the eight "fat corners" of the hotbox. I'd like to make these siting areas for dessicants. This <i>added</i> weight, presumably due to more walls vs sparse infill, so I changed it back.
* I experimented with adding a kinda inverted eggholder (actually just a bunch of inverted frustra) to the underside of the bottom chamber, in the hope of eliminating warping. It didn't really pan out (a good number detached from the build plate), and you need defeat warping for the top chamber anyway, so I removed them.
* I experimented with adding a kinda inverted eggholder (actually just a bunch of inverted frustra) to the underside of the bottom chamber, in the hope of eliminating warping. It didn't really pan out (a good number detached from the build plate), and you need defeat warping for the top chamber anyway, so I removed them.
* I'm experimenting with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypoid_gearboxes hypoid gear] to replace the less efficient [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Worm_drive worm drive], and also hoping to reduce the choppiness of the platter rotation.
* I'd love to get rid of the internal AC, but the heater maxes out at 4.5A of 120VAC. That's 45A of 12VDC, and now you're talking a (fairly large) power supply running close to $30.
** Can I not just mount the motor rotor-up, and use regular gears, or even a belt?