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Further reflections on watercooling: Difference between revisions

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I got some good feedback regarding my earlier "[[Reflections_on_watercooling|reflections on watercooling]]" piece, and I thought of a few things I'd missed, so here's some more dankwisdom. Take it for whatever it's worth. Please feel encouraged to send in further data for these tables, ''assuming you got the info directly from the manufacturer, or rigorously acquired it yourself.''
I got some good feedback regarding my earlier "[[Reflections_on_watercooling|reflections on watercooling]]" piece, and I thought of a few things I'd missed, so here's some more dankwisdom. Take it for whatever it's worth. Please feel encouraged to send in further data for these tables, ''assuming you got the info directly from the manufacturer, or rigorously acquired it yourself'' (don't send me data you read off some web forum).
 
* Tubing (soft tubing anyway—if you'll recall, I have never used hard tubing, and don't intend to) exists in your loop for three reasons:
** it is cheaper per unit length than metallic fittings,
** it can be cut to arbitrary lengths, and
** it is flexible.
Some general tips regarding soft tubing:
** Check your compression fittings' o-rings for dirt, washing them if necessary. Damaged o-rings must be replaced. Without functioning o-rings, the fitting may not be waterproof.
** Cut generously, then trim as necessary. You can't add length back to your tubing.
** With compression fittings, I recommend first completing a compression mating on one end of the tube, then screwing this complete mating into the source, then screwing a fitting base into the target, then performing a cut, then putting the fitting ring onto the end of the tube, then putting the tube onto the (fixed) fitting base, then finally tightening the fitting ring. Don't try to complete both compression matings outside of the loop; screwing in one side will unscrew the other side, and if you attempt to hold the other side, it'll twist the tube.
** If you're having difficulty getting the fitting ring onto the tube, run some warm water over the tube's end. It'll get in there eventually.
** To tighten the fitting ring onto a fitting base in the last step, use your secondary hand to hold the tube fixed (it ought not move during the process), and your primary hand to rotate the fitting to the right while pushing it constantly towards the base.


* Knowing the volume of your components is useful for working the heat equations, for knowing how much coolant you'll need (particularly relevant when using concentrates), and also for determining completion when filling or draining. Unfortunately, this information isn't generally published. I've measured some components using a graduated cylinder at 22℃. The cylinder was labeled at 2mL increments, so no more than 2mL of precision can be assumed. This is unfortunate, as most fittings hold not much more than that. I would measure them with a more accurate pipette, except that it really doesn't matter; their volumes will be dwarfed by your reservoirs/radiators, and probably even by your tubing.
* Knowing the volume of your components is useful for working the heat equations, for knowing how much coolant you'll need (particularly relevant when using concentrates), and also for determining completion when filling or draining. Unfortunately, this information isn't generally published. I've measured some components using a graduated cylinder at 22℃. The cylinder was labeled at 2mL increments, so no more than 2mL of precision can be assumed. This is unfortunate, as most fittings hold not much more than that. I would measure them with a more accurate pipette, except that it really doesn't matter; their volumes will be dwarfed by your reservoirs/radiators, and probably even by your tubing.

Revision as of 07:01, 2 May 2022

I got some good feedback regarding my earlier "reflections on watercooling" piece, and I thought of a few things I'd missed, so here's some more dankwisdom. Take it for whatever it's worth. Please feel encouraged to send in further data for these tables, assuming you got the info directly from the manufacturer, or rigorously acquired it yourself (don't send me data you read off some web forum).

  • Tubing (soft tubing anyway—if you'll recall, I have never used hard tubing, and don't intend to) exists in your loop for three reasons:
    • it is cheaper per unit length than metallic fittings,
    • it can be cut to arbitrary lengths, and
    • it is flexible.

Some general tips regarding soft tubing:

    • Check your compression fittings' o-rings for dirt, washing them if necessary. Damaged o-rings must be replaced. Without functioning o-rings, the fitting may not be waterproof.
    • Cut generously, then trim as necessary. You can't add length back to your tubing.
    • With compression fittings, I recommend first completing a compression mating on one end of the tube, then screwing this complete mating into the source, then screwing a fitting base into the target, then performing a cut, then putting the fitting ring onto the end of the tube, then putting the tube onto the (fixed) fitting base, then finally tightening the fitting ring. Don't try to complete both compression matings outside of the loop; screwing in one side will unscrew the other side, and if you attempt to hold the other side, it'll twist the tube.
    • If you're having difficulty getting the fitting ring onto the tube, run some warm water over the tube's end. It'll get in there eventually.
    • To tighten the fitting ring onto a fitting base in the last step, use your secondary hand to hold the tube fixed (it ought not move during the process), and your primary hand to rotate the fitting to the right while pushing it constantly towards the base.
  • Knowing the volume of your components is useful for working the heat equations, for knowing how much coolant you'll need (particularly relevant when using concentrates), and also for determining completion when filling or draining. Unfortunately, this information isn't generally published. I've measured some components using a graduated cylinder at 22℃. The cylinder was labeled at 2mL increments, so no more than 2mL of precision can be assumed. This is unfortunate, as most fittings hold not much more than that. I would measure them with a more accurate pipette, except that it really doesn't matter; their volumes will be dwarfed by your reservoirs/radiators, and probably even by your tubing.
Component Volume (mL)
Hardware Labs XFLOW 240 radiator 90
Hardware Labs GTR 360 radiator 320
Hardware Labs GTS 360 radiator 130
EKWB Aorus Master monoblock 45
EKWB EK-Vector waterblock 50
EKWB Quantum Kinetic FLT 240 reservoir+pump 265
DiyHZ sensor 4
Monsoon Series Two reseroir+pump 300
EKWB XTOP Dual D5 pump 35
aquacomputer highflow NEXT sensor 8
EKWB Quantum Torque 45° rotary adapter 2

For those of you who dropped out before the first grade, the volume of your (cylindrical) tubing can be calculated by multiplying the length of the tubing by pi by half the inner diameter squared. Area of a circle is πr², r is a radius (half of your inner diameter), and the volume is then area times length. If it's not obvious, this works no matter how you might curve or bend your tube.

Compression fittings negligibly effect the total volume. If you wanted to model their impact, each tube ought be considered shorter by twice the length of the barb (the extrusion inserted into your tube), indicating the volume occupied by the barb. The barb's volume in this region is then equal to that length times, once again, the area of the barb's interior. Using calipers, I measured the inner diameters of some compression fittings intended for 0.5in (12.7mm) inner diameter tubing:

Barb model Inner diameter (mm) Length (mm) Volume (mL) Δ (mL)
EKWB EK-AH 10.9 10.0 0.933 0.334
EKWB Quantum Torque 8.75 10.0 0.601 0.666

The non-linearity of the r² term is obvious here: the Quantum Torque inner diameter is 80.3% of the EK-AH's, but the total volume is only 64.4%. Either way, 10mm of the tubing is 1.267mL, so you're talking ¾ or ½ of that in the fitting. Assuming half-inch tubing, you can thus subtract 0.666mL for every Quantum Torque compression fitting, or 0.334 for every EK-AH. A 200mL reservoir would represent almost 600 times this latter value. You can use this same reasoning to calculate the (very small) volume loss at each fitting juncture—just use the inner diameter of the threading.

  • When completely idled, a modern processor ought be using only a handful of watts. This is insubstantial heating at the surface area of an integrated heat spreader / waterblock. Ergo, an idled processor ought report temperatures roughly equal to the coolant's temperature. If an idle processor reports temperatures more than a degree or two over the coolant's temperature (modulo any systematic error in your sensors), you have most likely fucked up application of the thermal paste. If they don't, you most likely haven't; congratulations.