Anonymous

MO-RA3: Difference between revisions

From dankwiki
Line 63: Line 63:
fan -> wire -> female -> wire -> male
fan -> wire -> female -> wire -> male


but every PWM fan hookup ever made, and every DRGB hookup ever made, offers male and wants female (i.e. header *pins*). Admittedly, this is a weird departure from the norm (you typically want your charged elements to be female, so they don't go stabbing charge into hands, legs, metal, etc.), but it is what it is. This means that if you want to extrude the female receptacles (which you do), it's going to have a minimum of two wires showing (the wire to the fan, and the wire to the male). Furthermore, you don't get the full useful length of the wire. This can be worked around by putting gender changers on the terminating fans' *male* connectors. Then, bring other fans' *male* connectors out, hooking up to the (unadapted) *female* receptacles in cascade, i.e.:
but every PWM fan hookup ever made, and every DRGB hookup ever made, offers male and wants female (i.e. header *pins*). Admittedly, this is a weird departure from the norm (you typically want your charged elements to be female, so they don't go stabbing charge into hands, legs, metal, etc.), but it is what it is. This means that if you want to extrude the female receptacles (which you do), it's going to have a minimum of two wires showing (the wire to the fan, and the wire to the male). Furthermore, you don't get the full useful length of the wire.
 
This can be worked around by putting gender changers on the terminating fans' *male* connectors. Then, bring other fans' *male* connectors out, hooking up to the (unadapted) *female* receptacles in cascade, i.e.:


* fan1 -> wire -> female1 -> wire -> male1 <b>plugs</b> female2 -> wire -> male2 <b>plugs</b> gender adapter <b>plugs</b> source
* fan1 -> wire -> female1 -> wire -> male1 <b>plugs</b> female2 -> wire -> male2 <b>plugs</b> gender adapter <b>plugs</b> source
Line 70: Line 72:


the "gender adapter" here is just a 4-pin jumper.
the "gender adapter" here is just a 4-pin jumper.
But that's not how it's expecting to hook up; it expects you to use the female receptacles at the outlay. Thankfully, there's a little less than 25mm of gap on one side of the grill. So long as all your wires end up there, they'll be hidden (this gap has a solid cover). So...
* Each P-14 has an ARGB 4-pin hookup on one corner
* Looking at the front of the P-14, the 4-pin PWM hookup is on the next corner, clockwise
* The cables are 400mm
* The PWM connectors hook up more securely than the ARGB connectors do
So, looking at the front of the MO-RA3, arrange three fans along the bottom such that their ARGB corner is at the bottom right. Their PWM corners will be on the bottom left (if these are reversed, either the fan or the MO-RA3 is backwards). Bring all the cables all the way forward into the gap area (do *not* hook them up on the bottom edge; there's no room, and you're likely to mess up your ARGB connections). Hook them up female-to-male, with the rightmost fan's female receptacles free (and the leftmost fan's male connectors unused).
Now along the top, arrange three such that the ARGB corner is in the upper right. Repeat the process above. Three fans go in the middle. Once again, run the cables into the gap area, and connect them there. Tape everything down with electrical tape.
You ought now have six female headers in the gap area. Hook up a 3-way PWM splitter and a 3-way ARGB splitter. Run the two resulting females out through the hole in the grate, and hook them up to your source. Remember to watch your amperages!


===Grills===
===Grills===