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InaMORAta: Difference between revisions

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A 12V plus ground pair are used from one of the hub's PWM hookups to drive a HiLetgo LM2596 buck converter. The LM2596 is configured to deliver 7.1V by adjusting a potentiometer. The output is displayed on the LM2596's LED. This is a safe output to drive both the Arduino and the Heltec. On the output side, we hook two barreljack pushbutton connectors up to the LM2596. One directly powers the Arduino. The other uses a microUSB adapter to power the Heltec.
A 12V plus ground pair are used from one of the hub's PWM hookups to drive a HiLetgo LM2596 buck converter. The LM2596 is configured to deliver 7.1V by adjusting a potentiometer. The output is displayed on the LM2596's LED. This is a safe output to drive both the Arduino and the Heltec. On the output side, we hook two barreljack pushbutton connectors up to the LM2596. One directly powers the Arduino. The other uses a microUSB adapter to power the Heltec.


We will *not* be powering the fans or LEDs from the Arduino directly. They draw far too much current, and Arduinos can't provide 12V power anyway (well, unless you dump 12V in at the power jack, and then drive from VIN, but you're gonna be voltage regulating that 12 down to 5, and why burn dinosaurs when there's no need?). Everything else is powered by the hub directly. We only need 5V for the tachometer and PWM signals, but we need send 12V PWM to the LEDs. We thus connect another 12V plus ground pair to one side of the breadboard, where we'll feed it into MOSFETs (see below; we can probably eliminate the hub entirely).
We will *not* be powering the fans or LEDs from the Arduino directly. They draw far too much current, and Arduinos can't provide 12V power anyway (well, unless you dump 12V in at the power jack, and then drive from VIN, but you're gonna be voltage regulating that 12 down to 5, and why burn dinosaurs when there's no need?). Everything else is powered by the hub directly. We only need 5V for the tachometer and PWM signals, but we need send 12V PWM to the LEDs. We thus connect another ground to one side of the breadboard, where we'll hook it up to the MOSFETs.


==Rotation count (RPMs)==
==Rotation count (RPMs)==
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==Future work==
==Future work==
* This needs to get cleaned up, obviously. at a bare minimum, wires need be soldered into the Heltec.
* This needs to get cleaned up, obviously. at a bare minimum, wires need be soldered into the Heltec.
* I think I can remove the 12V hub and just drive things off the 12V/ground lines on the breadboard. This would also remove the barreljack-to-SATA adapter (I'd just take the barreljack to a 2-way screwpost, and from there to the breadboard). That would probably let me move everything to the side of the MO-RA3, which would be great.


[[CATEGORY:Projects]]
[[CATEGORY:Projects]]
[[CATEGORY:Hardware]]
[[CATEGORY:Hardware]]